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Polish for BMW black sapphire metallic? - Page 2
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  1. #16

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    Chris,

    106 should be fine, I don`t think you would actually benefit from 85RD any more than 106FF/FA.... Best thing is to try it, take your time, and read through the invaluable information here on the forums. SIP is good if you really have a lot of correction to do, but I would still start with the 106 or 85RD first.
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  2. #17

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    I normally follow 106ff with 8rd or FPII, but it is definitely not required; just make sure to prepsol after 106ff to make sure you`ve got all the marring out. I agree with chp, start with 106ff, see how it goes, and if you need to move up to SIP go for it, then finish with 106ff.
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  3. #18
    Forza Auto Salon David Fermani's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Totoland Mach
    Actually, some of the newer black Bimmers have hard clear coats. I`ve recently done a black 750Li and a same year black 760Li (lots of sheet metal...acres!) and they both had hard clear.


    BMW started using Powered Clear Coats on 5, 6 & 7 series around 05-06. Very similar to Mercedes CeramiClear (hard). It`s supposed to have much less VOC than traditional water borne paints & is supposed to be more durable.
    Metro Detroit`s leader in cleaning, preserving & perfecting fine automobiles!

  4. #19
    STUTTGART'S FINEST Deanski's Avatar
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    So, you have a UDM. If you do not have lots of experience with polishing, I would use polishes more geared for UDM /RO type polishers and pads. 106FF/FA and 85RD are great polishes but work best with rotary, however, with time and experience, they work just as well with a UDM/RO polisher, just takes more time. That`s why I suggest most RO users to use a polish more suited to that type of polisher. Once they gain more experience, they change to more esoteric polishes or ones made for rotary use.



    Don`t forget 3M Ultrafina does well in finishing.



    Pads, Start with an Orange pad, get a Green pad, then full polish and finish pads.



    With the UDM, you`ll have to take your time to do any real correcting, but if the finish is good with very light marring, you`ll do fine. It`s matching the pads/polish to the finish you have to correct, or finish. Always start mild and work up. This goes to both pads and polishes.



    With a good pad and finish polish, you`ll get that finish blinding glossy. From there, go to your LSP.



    I use 106FF/FA and 85RD often, but I use a rotary mostly. These are good polishes, but if you choose to seal as opposed to wax, make sure you wipe down the finish with an IPA or wash to strip the lube oils from any polishes used prior to sealants. If using a wax, go right to the wax.



    Deanski
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